regards to the 1/5 scale corvette model, how many hours do you think you
will have invested in the project?
To answer your question first, if the model was going to be constructed
with all the drawings provided it would probably take approximately 3 to 5
weeks of continuous work i.e. 200-300hrs.
I will probably have between 500-700hrs due to working on the project as a
part time basis. It is difficult to estimate the amount of time as I am trying
to update the website at each stage. I normally have several things going
at the same time, model armature, tools, wheels and jigs, so you can see
it is a long term process at the moment.
how much clay ?
Is there any way to calculate how much clay you need for a project ?
I'd like to make a 1/4 model. I don't know how much clay I need....
I know it depends on the design I choose, but it could be good to have an
average idea for each scales...
Seb, the answer to your question.
The amount of clay that is used on a project will vary depending on the
scale that you use. On the Corvette project (1/5 scale) I will probably
use between 60-100lbs (27-45Kgs) This is because the shape is already
determined, the vehicle is already a production model.
The buck for the model can be made close to the finished article. I will
probably make the buck 1 inch (25mm) undersized, this will give a
thickness of clay that should be stable in my garage environment. Any clay
scrapings can be re-used providing there are no contaminates.
If a design is being developed then you will use more clay due to design
changes. You would probably use 50% more clay.
If you are going to build a 1/4 scale model Seb, you will automatically
need more clay due to the larger scale. I would guess that you would need
approximately 100-170lbs (45-77Kgs) This will allow for numerous changes
providing that the model armature is reasonably close.
You may find that I have over estimated the amount of clay but I would
hate to run out of material before completing the project.
for the moment I just have 1.3kg of Chavant Y2Klay.
Only 1.3 kg because I wanted to feel the product and see if it's good for
me before to order more.
I know Y2Klay is 40% lighter than other clays at the same volume, so does
it mean it will take me 40% less weight than the quantity you said for my
Do you think Y2Klay is a good clay to hold small details and acute edges,
even with a 1/5 scale ?
For the moment, I have problems to keep my straight edges and fine details
with the Y2. But it seems to be a hard Klay so...
Maybe I need to "approach" my designs with clay modeling as
close as possible, without being worry about small details.
And then to apply a hard coat of gel coat ( or what kind of product ? ) to
be able to "sculpt" it and sand it for perfect edges and small
details in this more hard "compound" ?
If this is the way to hold fine details , I will consider to do a 1/5
scale instead of a 1/4.
What do you think ?
Thanks again for your help.
Yes, the model would be that much lighter if you use Y2Klay. The amount of
clay used would be the total volume, so basically it would take 2-3 boxes
of clay at a guess of any of the Chavant industrial clays available.
Check their distributor list for a supplier closest to your location for
the best price.
Below is a list of industrial clays available through the Chavant website.
If you have no luck, contact Chavant direct, they are very accommodating.
To retain detailed edges and sharp lines, it takes practice and will come
automatically over time. On detail lines you can use masking tape to hold
the edges crisp while you model up to the line. Also you can insert
various thicknesses of fishing line along detail lines or around features
to retain the edges.
Most of the hard styling clays are suitable for detailed work. If you are
going to have super high definition then you may have to insert a separate
piece into that section of the model. This is commonly done for head lamps
and tail lamps. The lamp clusters are completed in a more suitable
material then inserted as a separate piece.
As far as what scale to use, the smaller the scale the more you have to
"cheat" to obtain a visually correct model. The smaller scales
when increased to full size need more refinement due to the scale factor.
The trade off on a smaller scale model is that you are using less material
and the model is that much lighter than a larger scale model. You also
need less space for the project i.e. garage.
Hard Styling Clays (Standard)
CM-50: A "medium hard", dark brown formulation, considered the
softest of the Hard Styling Clays.
J-525: A "hard" light brown formulation.
CM-70: An "extra hard" dark brown formulation.
Billet (cylinder) or Block Size Approximate Block Dimensions Net Case
2 lb. Blocks 2¾" x 2¾" x 5" 50 Pounds
5 lb. Blocks (CM_70 only) 4½" x 4½" x 5½" 50 Pounds
10lb. Blocks 4½" x 4½" x 11" 50 Pounds
2½ lb. Billet 2½" x 12" 50 Pounds
3 lb. Billet 3" x 8" 60 Pounds
Hard Styling Clays (DeAired)
These "extremely hard" formulations are the firmest of Chavants
Hard Styling Clays. Entrapped air is removed making the clay more dense,
smoother and ideal for achieving fine extrusions.
P-40: A SULFUR FREE. The hardest styling clay we produce that can be
melted and poured. P-40 has a reduced working temperature requirement (115°).
Higher wax concentration provides greater resistance to model cracks.
Available in brown (natural color variations may exist in P-40).
I-307: Reduced sulfur content and reduced working temperature requirement
(120°). Higher wax concentration provides greater resistance to model
cracks. Hard but softer than I-305.
Billet (cylinder) Size Approximate Billet Dimensions Net Case Weight
2½ lb. Billet* 2½" x 12" 50 Pounds
3 lb. Billet 3" x 8" 60 Pounds
6 lb. Billet 3" x 16" 48 Pounds
*(Special order only. 2500 Pound Minimum.)
The same high level of quality expected from Chavant is incorporated into
this new formula. Y2 Klay offers the consistency, adhesion, cohesion and
surface development Characteristics found in Chavant clays since 1892.
Billet (cylinder) Size Approximate Block Dimensions Net Case Weight
1.75 lb. Billet 2½" x 10" 35 Pounds
I'm new to modeling with clay. I have tons of clay but no skill whatsoever
with shaping and sculpting it. (it is much harder than it seems, for me
anyways) Would someone like to help me out. Like tell me the process of
building a clay model. I have the dimensions of a 1/18 scale model of my
own design. Would someone tell me how I go about doing this?? I know I
make a template background of the basic shape of the car to work off of.
Anything important? How do I get it ready for paint?
you very much for your time!!!
I'm all for jumping in the deep end but first let's check to see what you
have learnt to do this job. There is a lot of information on this forum
from other participants, also the website covers a lot of information as
to the type of tools required. First checkout all the postings, there may
be information that you can use to get you going, next read the
information on my website, use the content page to navigate.
For the size of scale model that you are making, the amount of tools will
be minimal. A couple of small scrapers can be made from silverware ( see
Finishers Unique on the website) You will also need a couple of steels to
obtain a good surface finish. You might be able to get the steels from
your local art supply, such as Kemper tools.
The technique section of the website is still in progress at the moment so
once I know that you have some tools to get your job going we'll get into
the actual process of making the scale model.
I need to know what tools you have to do the scale model so that you can
be guided in the right direction. By making or buying the tools to do the
model you are automatically thinking about the end result.
Let me know what tools you have and we'll go from there.
I have everything I will need, except steels, which I believe I can make
on my own. Sorry about not searching the site, but I have been turning the
internet upside down trying to find help with this. But thank you very
much for wanting to help me out!!
the illustration that I've created using your model information. The first
thing to do is to make a modeling platform from 3/4" plywood. The
size should be about 4" bigger than the finished model on all sides.
This will allow you to work the model and still have grid lines visible
for duplication. Mark-out the board with a suitable grid, such as every
1" or 25.0mm, marking the center line of the board first then grid
either side. Then mark the grid for the length of the board next.
Make a plywood plinth that is as long as your distance for the wheel
centers (wheel base). The width should be as wide as the inside of the
tires. This allows for the wheels to be butted up against the wooden
plinth during modeling and the length will not interfere with any ground
plans, front and rear. Fix the plinth to the modeling platform with double
sided tape. This will allow you to remove the model when you are finished.
When you have this process complete, glue your
foam and clay block on top of the wooden plinth using a 5 minute epoxy
mix. Make sure it is centered both ways to the plinth. Also make sure that
the glue doesn't spill over onto the modeling board otherwise you'll never
remove your model.
If you look at your sketches you may have noticed that I've sweetened the
lines using French curves. It may pay you to do the same as you will be
using these drawings as the master guide. The plan drawing needs to be
completed and should relate to the overall width of the model. You will
also need four wheels and tires and the size should be reflected in your
side view drawing. By putting the wheels and tires on the side view you
can determine whether the vehicle has too much ground clearance and if the
overall proportions look correct.
Well I think this is enough information for you to progress with for right
now. Once you have completed this stage let me know and we'll go from